PCT Section: Kennedy Meadows South to Kearsarge Pass

PCT hike, section 2: Kennedy Meadows South (mile 703.4) out Kearsarge Pass (mile 790.1) to Independence 

Day-by-day:

7/6/24: Kennedy Meadows South (mile 793.4) to campsite (mile 710.7), 7.6 miles + 1 mile road walk, 1,500ft elevation gain 

7/7/24: Campsite (mile 710.7) to campsite (mile 730.3), 19.7 miles, 4,430ft elevation gain 

7/8/24: Campsite (mile 730.3) to Chicken Spring Lake (mile 752), 21.8 miles, 4,220ft elevation gain 

7/9/24: Chicken Spring Lake (mile 752) to Crabtree Meadow (mile 767.5 +1.2 mi off of the PCT), 16.7 miles, 3,257ft elevation gain

7/10/24: Climbing Mt. Whitney! Crabtree Meadow up Mount Whitney then campsite (mile 770), 17.2 miles, 4,830ft elevation gain 

7/11/24: Campsite (mile 770) to campsite (mile 789.9), 19.9 miles, 4,550ft of elevation gain 

7/12/24: Campsite (mile 770) out Kearsarge Pass to Independence, 7.5 miles (7.3 off of the PCT), 1,184ft elevation gain 

The Sierra section of the PCT is known to be the most spectacular. It coincides with the John Muir Trail (JMT) much of the way and passes through three National Parks—Sequoia, Kings Canyon, and Yosemite. It boasts some of the most exciting views, highest peaks, pristine alpine lakes, and extensive flora and fauna. That said, it takes a lot to reap such great rewards. The terrain is challenging, often gaining thousands of feet of elevation to go over passes at upwards of 13,000+ft! The air is thin and catching our breath while doing mundane chores—let alone hiking 20 miles a day—has been tough, particularly for Dr. Lotus who is more susceptible to altitude sickness. She started exhibiting signs of acute mountain sickness (AMS) and a lot of peripheral edema (swelling from water retention). 

In this section, we climbed Mount Whitney (14,505 ft), the tallest peak in the lower 48, and went over Forrester Pass (13,153 ft), the highest pass in the Sierra and highest point on the PCT. To get out of this remote section for resupply, we had to hike 1,000 ft of elevation gain up over Kearsarge Pass (which is not technically on the PCT) and 7-8 miles down to Onion Valley Trailhead where we got a hitch from a very nice older retired couple to the teeny tiny town of Independence. When we got there, we stayed at a motel, talked to Dr. Lotus’ doctor, and got the advice we needed to make important decisions like getting medication. Picking up medicine required taking a shuttle to the town of Bishop, where we also made the best of our day eating at a cute cafe and bowling! We decided to skip the next 117 miles of trail in the Sierra that go over the highest passes to ensure Dr. Lotus wouldn’t experience more concerning altitude effects like cerebral or pulmonary edema. So the next day, we took multiple buses to Reds Meadow to get back on trail. We were super hopeful, but after about 5 miles of hiking it was clear that Dr. Lotus was still in rough shape. The medicine was helping, but just not enough. It was difficult, but we ultimately decided not to continue hiking. The health risks just weren’t worth it. Maybe on a thru we would have taken a week off and tried again, but on a summer section that was not the right call for us. It was time to pivot to a new summer adventure. So we hiked down into Mammoth and started our journey home. Even though we were disappointed, we knew it was the right decision for us. After all, we wanted to enjoy our summer, not suffer through it with worry!

Here are some big reflections: 

1. Good energy from hikers and muggles at Kennedy Meadows was exactly what we needed to stay positive and motivated after our resupply package didn’t arrive and we had to spend extra money to get food. Lots of fist bumps, meeting people from all over the world, and people who were just genuinely excited to meet hikers doing the PCT. We also stumbled upon their tractor parade and BBQ which included live music. The band played a combo of 2000s country and classic rock, not bad! It was hard to leave and start hiking in the 90+ degree heat. At least we knew it was the end of the desert, thank goodness.
2. The mountains in the Sierra are otherworldly. We have traveled to international hiking destinations like Peru and Patagonia, but you can find the same level of grandeur in the United States! We are in awe at essentially every moment because the landscapes are so overwhelmingly beautiful. We camped at the first alpine lake opportunity, saw so many marmots, and marveled at resilient mountain flowers growing between rock crevices. Approaching sheer rock faces, it seems impossible that we could hike up to the passes of these 13,000+ ft giants. But each time we get closer, we see a carefully carved trail that switchbacks up and over what appears to be an impenetrable wall. The trail maintenance is truly a feat of engineering. We met some NPS trail maintainers and it was super cool to see them at work. Plus they were just funny energetic people asking us to settle their squabbles about topics like handball (is it a sport, really?). I guess you gotta talk about something during a day’s work? And with no cell service, it’s like the old days with all debate and no definitive answers. 
3. Hiking Mt. Whitney (Tumanguya – Indigenous Paiute name meaning “very old man” and/or “guardian spirit”) and Forrester Pass were huge feats for us. Both landscapes truly took our breath away (or was that because of altitude 😜?). Whitney was a much tougher climb than Forrester, primarily because there was so much elevation gain and the air was so thin up there. But the views, marmot sightings, trail community, and feeling of accomplishment made it all worth it. 
4. Well, it’s not always rainbows and butterflies while backpacking! As we alluded to, the altitude has been really challenging to adjust to, specifically for Dr. Lotus. Short breaths, swelling limbs, puffy/swollen face (like very swollen), headaches, nausea, and loss of appetite have done a number on her. Stretch dealt with some of these things, but adjusted better and faster. After noting some concerning AMS symptoms for Kathy, we got our doctor’s consultation and made the tough call to readjust our plans to ensure Dr. Lotus’ safety and enjoyment for the rest of the trip. As with all backpacking, we had to deal with a series of unexpected events and we felt really proud of how we handled the immense metaphorical and literal highs and lows of this section! We are so glad to have each other for support.
5. Making the most of forced zero days means exploring places we would never visit  if we weren’t backpacking. We stayed in the town of Independence, which is literally one street with a post office, a sub shop, two gas stations, two food trucks, a couple motels, a courthouse, and an ice cream shop—the essentials. We stayed at the Courthouse Motel for $99. Immediately, we washed our laundry in the sink and dried it out back. Sure, there were ants in the bathroom, but who cares? There was AC, a microwave, fridge, WiFi, a bed, and a super kind proprietor who greeted us with waters and fresh fruit upon arrival. The next morning, we took a 50 minute shuttle to Bishop, a much bigger town, for Dr. L to grab altitude medicine from the most helpful pharmacist. To make the most of our time off, we lounged at a coffee shop and even went bowling! Yes, Stretch is significantly better than Dr. L. Then, we got a ride with a trail angel (a former Outward Bound leader) back to Independence, housed ice cream, and weathered a massive windstorm that knocked the power out periodically for an hour. The next morning, we took two shuttles to Mammoth Lakes, watched the Euro final at a sports bar, and took another shuttle to the trail. After a day of meds and rest, Dr. L’s swelling and other AMS symptoms subsided and we relished our time roaming around California together. We guess adventuring and figuring out how to navigate challenges is what life is all about. 
6. Books listened to: Wilder Girls (both), Animal Farm (both), Long Island (Kathy), Rewilding (Kevin). Seeing a theme? Classics, science nonfiction, YA 😂